Bistro Polidor Paris France

 

POLIDOR

Rue Monsieur la Prince

Paris

Polidor opened as a cheese store and restaurant in 1845.  In 1890, its owners closed the store to focus on the restaurant. 

Frequented in the 19th century by artists such as the poet Germain Nouveau, who praised its cuisine, Polidor quickly became a popular rendezvous for artists, students, intellectuals and politicians from the surrounding neighborhoods. Then, as now, Le Polidor provided simple good French cuisine, both homey and affordable. Its tables have welcomed Sorbonne students, residents and visitors to the neighborhood  for over 175 years.

The restaurant is also famous for being the meeting place of numerous artists and especially for the Collège of Pataphysique Assemblies from 1948 to 1975. Diners at Le Polidor have included famous author and playwright Eugene Ionesco, director René Clair, poet Paul Valéry, novelist Boris Vian, and explorer and intellectual Paul Emile Victor. Polidor used to welcome Verlaine, Rimbaud, Jean Jaurès, James Joyce, André Gide and  Ernest Hemingway.  Hemingway who lived nearby refers to dinners at le Polidor with friends and with his first wife Hadley in “A Movable Feast.”   In the film “Midnight in Paris,” Woody Allen shot the meeting of the main character and Ernest Hemingway in Le Polidor. 

Once upon a time… 

« Have a lunch with Marie Dormoy in an excellent restaurant: le Polidor, rue Monsieur Le Prince. I think we will keep going… ». This is what Paul Léautaud writes in its famous « Journal Littéraire » on the 21th of November 1941. «… I think i will keep going »… Who didn’t say that about this unusual little restaurant, if he had the privilege of entering it. The Polidor charm – a bit old fashioned, a bit bewitching – where does it come? From its immutable frontage whose architecture, color, and signboard send us in the past? Of this surprising series of small black lockers (at the back of the first room) which, for many years, have kept towels of regular clients, often famous? Entering the Polidor, it’s like opening a door to History.

Firstly, the place’s history: rue Monsieur le Prince. It is the old path that went along the rampart of Phillipe Auguste, later the ditch of Charles V enclosure. In the cellar of the n°41, a vestige of this rampart goes to Rue Racine. The « Crapouillot » of April 1960 reminded thereupon the « united chefs » of rue Racine in 1948, which Daumier nicknamed the « saucialistes ». The same « Crapouillot » evoked the Polidor « a cheap restaurant during the Belle Epoque where met starving philosophers and poor poetries ».

Space is needed to retrace the history of the Parisian restaurants but we have to clarify to readers the appellation of « Dairy – Restaurant », still worn today by le Polidor. This appellation appeared on the second half of the 19th century. Originally, catering is occasional. Polidor sold milk, eggs, cheeses, and soon, the restaurant « served » morning customers, essentially feminine. At the end of the century, some « dairy» became small restaurants.

This is the case for the Polidor. Bléry, caterer, owns the restaurant from 1845 to 1885. But it was Froissard who turned it into a real little restaurant in 1890, yielded it to Chauvin in 1900 and to Bouy in 1906. The life of the Polidor has always mixed up with the Parisian cultural life. 

In 1974, the vagabond-poetry Germain Nouveau wrote to Richepin « We spent little money thanks to our knowledge of places where we eat as good and inexpensive as in Polidor… ». In 1883, its’Maurice Barrès who, in its famous «Voyage à Sparte » relates his meeting with Louis Ménard, father of the phonetic and regular client. He was himself introduced by Leconte de Lisle « who had a house Place de la Sorbonne, and, in this house a young charming lady, who came to eat for little money at Polidor… ». Louis Ménard was not the only one to find at Polidor « Pleasant the fried eggs consumed for little money ». There was also Jean Jaurès who appreciated the table…

As Verlaine who had lunch in 1893 with Enrique Gomez Carillo, famous Spanish journalist, and came back often with Rimbaud who lived in rue Monsieur Le Prince. The memory of Verlaine continues nowadays to be alive at Polidor: the Association « Les Amis de Verlaine » still meets there regularly.

Flet’s take a step back in history to this period: the Bony couple took back the Polidor in 1930. The Chef, Denis Recoules, was famous for his culinary feat. The life at Polidor continued to be composed by names that became famous. Pierre Benoît mentioned Polidor in its speech at the Académie Française. Pierre Béarn, Ange Bastiani, Ernest Hemingway, André Gide, Paul Léautaud, Paul Valéry, to name a few, became regular clients, often daily. And James Joyce, the author of « Ulysse », of which Jean Paris tells in « James Joyce par lui-même », his wanderings in the Latin Quarter « looking for a bouillon rue St-André-des-Arts or an omelet at Polidor.

Inside POLIDOR

BISTOR POLIDOR

Le MENU :

Author Daniel Bellino Zwicke

I first dined in Polidor in January of 1986. I had spur of the moment pulled together a week long trip to Paris after then People Express Airline put up a $99 each way fare from Newark Airport, NJ to Bruxelles International, Brussels, Belgium. I jumped on it. I asked my boss if I could get a week off to go. I was a Sous Chef at Wood's Restaurant on Madison Avenue, New York at the time. A had been working quite a bit the previous few months, helping out and doing extra shifts to cover for the chef and others in the kitchen, so the chef granted my request and I'd be off to Paris in short time. I was in 7th Heaven at the thought and soon to come reality of my first trip to the City of Light.

One of the best books I've ever bought was a book called The Food Lovers Guide to Paris, by Patricia Well. The author did a wonderful job going to and listing all fo the best restaurants, pastry shops, and cafes of Paris, with lots of great black and white photos and wonderful descriptions of storied Parisian eateries and romantic bistro. I was salivating with each and every bistro I read about, and couldn't wait to get to Paris and begin my culinary exploration of Paris, bistro food, charcuteries, cafes, and pastry shops. I made a list of the places I wanted to eat at most, which included: la Brasserie Isle St Louis for Choucroute Garni, a tea salon also on Isle St Louis, La Coupole, Brasserie Julien, La Cochon Aurielle, and Polidor. These last two were among the bistro that I was most excited to be going to.

I boarded the People Express Boeing 747 Jet Airliner and I was on my way. People Express had a most unique way of operating which cut cost and afforded them the ability to offer such cheap fares all over America and abroad. For one, you didn't buy your ticket ahead of time but purchase it onboard the plane once you were in the air. Also, food was not included, but you could purchase a lunch basket for $6, which included a tasty Sandwich, some Fruit, and Cake, Cookies, or CHocolate. It turned out to be one of the Best Meals I have ever eaten on a plane. The Sandwich was fresh and good, as was the fruit and dessert. Beverages were extra. I believe I got a Coke for one dollar. So I was armed with ny Frommer's Guide to Europe where I found my hotel (Cluny), I had my copy of Patrica Wells Food Lovers Guide to Paris, and my Travel Journal. I sat back and enjoyed the flight to Brussels. 

After arriving at Brussels International, I did as the Frommer Guide said, and I went downstairs in the airport to catch a train into the center of Brussels. I got off the train and checked my bags so I could walk around Brussels a bit. I had to see The Grande Place and I did. I had some of the famous Belgian Pomme Frites (French Fries), I bought some Belgian Chocolate and then my way to the train station for the two hour ride to Paris.

I arrived at Gare de Nord Station in Paris and walked out onto the station, then figured out how to get to the St Michel Metro stop which was right by the hotel that I picked out. I arrived at St Michel  metro stop, got on the long escalator, and then walked out onto the street, Blvd St Michel, Paris, "I'd arrived."

I pulled out my map and looked at it. I was just a block away from the Hotel Cluny which is located on the Blvd St Michel at the corner of Boulevard St Germain, an ideal location to be based. I walked in and walked up one flight of stairs to the front desk and asked if there were any rooms available. I was in luck, and the lady gave me two options. I could stay in a smaller single room which at the time amounted to just $13 US, or I could get a corner double room for $18 ... I splurged and took the double. The room was great. It was a good sized corner room, with French Windows that looked out onto the Latin Quarter below. I loved it. On top of this, the room was filled with all French Antique Furniture, and I felt as though it was the same as in the days of Hemingway's Paris of the 1920s. "I was in 7th Heaven and couldn't believe my luck." I unpacked some clothes and jumped into the shower to freshen up before going out to make my first exploration of the City of Light, Paris.

I got out onto the street and started walking. I turned left on St Michel and walked a couple blocks before stopping at my very first Parisian Cafe. I sat down at a table outside and ordered a Cafe au Lait. A few minutes later the waiter brought me my coffee and I sat back to do on the most famous things of all, when you are in Paris. I sipped my coffee and "people watched," and again I was in 7th Heaven, finally doing something I'd seen in movies over the years, I was at a Paris Cafe, just watching the World go by. I savored every minute of this seamlessly simple act of people watching.

After about 20 minutes or so at the cafe, I paid my check and left, continuing on the Boulevard St Michel, I came to the River Seine, and crossed over and on to Il de Cite, and right there before my very eyes was the Cathedral of Notre Dame d' Paris. Wow, another thing to accomplish, seeing one of the World's most famous cathedrals, Notre Dame, and there it was, right before my very eyes. I walked over and went in. As you can imagine, as the exterior is of gothic beauty, so is the inside. I looked up at its famous Rose Window, and marveled once again, I was in Paris. I was inside the Cathedral of Notre Dame.

I walked down to the end of the island, and crossed the bridge over to another island, Isle St Louis. This is one of the most charming parts of Paris, all the old buildings, and just a few narrow streets with wonderful little cafes, bistros, and tea salons that in Paris and France are known as Salone d' Te.  I had a nice little time on St Louis, walked down to the end, and across to abridge over the Seine to the area of Paris of the Bastille. I passed bistros and cafes and came upon and saw the large monument to The Bastille Prison and the Bastille Opera House across the way. There was a cafe there called the Dome Cafe, not to be confused with much more famous Brasserie Le Dome in Montparnasse. I went inside and had another Cafe au Lait and a Croque Monsieur, the famous grilled Ham & Cheese Sandwich that is served in practically every cafe in France. It was yummy, and I totally loved it. I was checking off my Parisian Bucket List, one-by-one, and this was one more. It tasted oh so good. 

I was having a good time strolling the streets of Paree, and feeling a little tired and jet lagged out, so I headed back to the hotel to take a nice little nap. 

I had a good 2 1/2 hour sleep. I got up and took a shower. I headed out to go to Polidor, but I head trouble finding it, so I saw a bistro that looked nice, so I popped in there. I'd find Polidor tomorrow. It turned out to be quite a nice bistro. I ordered some Beaujolais and Cassoulet, and had a most wonderful dinner. The bistro was quite charming, the food and wine were delicious, and the service spot on and friendly. What more could I ask for? I was in Paris, eating Cassoulet and a wonderful Parisian Bistro and drinking Beaujolais. It really doesn't get much better. I had a Tart Tatin for dessert, and ordered a glass of Sauterne to round the meal out. 

After this wonderful little meal, I made my way back to the hotel. I came upon a nice cafe on Blvd. St. Germain. I could not resist going in, and so I did. Guess what? Yep, another glass of Beaujolais. I spent a half hour at that cafe, then walked just a few block back to the Cluny Hotel. I'd find Polidor the following night.

I had a good nights sleep, and woke early the next morning. I went over to Les Halles, found a nice cafe and had breakfast of Cafe Latte and a Hot Croissant. Yum! I walked around Les Halles, went to The Pompidou Center. I made my way to the top of the Pompidou Center for a spectacular view of Paris, It was great. Then as I heard about the Cafe Costes from my friend John Lee and this girl I met at Milk Bar back in New York a few weeks before, I just had to go there. It was at the time, the hottest new place in all of Paree and I wanted to be there. It was a famous cafe designed by Phillip Starck, and it was all the rage of Paris, a place to see and be seen, and I did just that.

After some time spent at Cafe Costes, it was time to go to a place I was all hopped up about. This place was known, according to Patricia Wells and others, the most beautiful bar in Paris. Guess what? It was. I went inside, and instantly fell in love. It was a tiny little place full of charm. Right up my alley. The place was only about 30 feet long, and maybe 16 feet wide. It had a cute little Zinc Bar, and three small wooden booths to sit at across from the bar. The main feature of which are beautiful Tile Murals of the old Les Halles Market of the area. 

I ordered a Charcuterie Plate and a glass or Bourgueil Wine. The plate was a nice assortment of Pate Campagne, Duck Rillettes, Saucisson Sec (Salami), and French Cheese. It came with nice crust Baguette French Bread which was great to butter and eat and spread on the Duck Rillettes. I t was so nice sitting in this lovely little place, sipping my wine and eating pate. Yes, another Parisian Bucket List item I got to check off my list.

I had another great day walking around Les Halles and the Latin Quarter of Paris. I'd go back to the hotel, take a nap, and then got have the best Bistro Dinner at Polidor that night. All I had to do was find the Rue Monsieur la Prince. No Problemo.

I EAT at POLIDOR

Well I really studied my map of Paris while having breakfast at the cafe the next day. That day I went to the Museo d'Orsay, the recently opened Impressionist Museum in the former Parisian train station of the Gare d'Orsay a beautiful Beaux Arts structure built in 1898. I had quite a nice time and enjoyed looking at all the beautiful paintings be the famed impressionist artist like: Van Gogh, Pissaro, Renoir, Manet, Monet, Degas, and others. Quite a nice collection, but I felt then and still feel to this day that The Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York has a better collection than the Orsay Museum which is dedicated solely to impressionist art, the Met in New York has a better collection, believe it or not, it's true.

I had a nice day, going to the Orsay, having a nice lunch and walking around Gay Paree. As usual, I went back to the hotel and took a 2 hour nap, before getting up for dinner. I left the hotel and walked along the Boulevard St Germain until I reached the Odeon Metro stop, where I made a left onto Rue Dupuytren, I walked one block and hit Rue Monsieur le Prince where I made a left and about 2 and a half block and came upon the Rue Racine (where Hemingway once lived), I crossed Racine and came to # 41 Rue le Prince and Bistro Polidore. "I made it."

I walked into the bistro where I was greeted by a waitress, who asked if she had a table for one. "Oui Monsieur." she replied. Yeah, I was in like flynn. I made it. I settled into my seat and my waitress brought me a small carafe of water and gave me a menu.

Daniel Bellino Zwicke

Monday, August 2, 2021

To Be Continued ....

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