"MY VENICE"
by BEST SELLING ITALIAN COOKBOOK AUTHOR
Daniel Bellino Zwicke
VENICE, ITALY
CLICK HERE ! To READ
Daniel & Cousing Joe
A BACARO in VENICE
2003
BEST SELLING AUTHOR
FIND a ROOM in VENICE
And HOTELS WORLDWIDE
VENICE
Daniel Bellino Zwicke
Tuesday, July 19, 2022
Wednesday, June 8, 2022
Exploring Procida
Procida
Procida is one of the Flegrean Islands off the coast of Naples in southern Italy. The island is between Cape Miseno and the island of Ischia. With its tiny satellite island of Vivara, it is a comune of the Metropolitan City of Naples, in the region of Campania.
If you're a veteran of the Amalfi Coast and the nearby Islands and you've never been to Procida, you just may want to give it a shot someday?
Procida, a tiny spot of land in the Bay of Naples, might be best known as the island between Ischia and Capri. But in late January, it was named Italy’s Capital of Culture for 2022, beating nine other candidates—a mix of cities and small towns—and becoming the first island to ever be granted the title.
Under two square miles in total, the island has mostly flown under the tourist radar (except in July and August, when many Neapolitans come here for their summer vacations), overshadowed by its better-known siblings. This is all despite its big-screen moments—Procida has served as the set of The Talented Mr. Ripley and Il Postino—and the fact that it features the same pastel houses, cafes-lined marinas, and narrow streets as its bigger counterparts, but also historic sites, wild nature, and near-empty beaches.
PROCIDA
The PORT
HOW to GET THERE
Procida lies 14 miles off the coast of Naples. There are daily ferries and hydrofoils leaving from two of the city’s piers, Molo Beverello and Porta di Massa, as well as from Pozzuoli, just north of Naples. Depending on the ride—the faster hydrofoil or the slower ferry—you’ll get to the island in 40 minutes to 1 hour. You can also travel from Ischia—that’s a 15- to 25-minute journey.
WHAT to SEE
Arriving at Marina Grande, Procida’s main tourist port, you’ll see a cluster of traditional houses along the waterfront, each one painted in vivid shades of pink, yellow, orange, red, and blue—traditionally a way for fishermen to identify them from their boats.
Via Roma, Procida’s main street, is right around the corner from the port, and a good spot for lunch—especially at La Medusa, which has been around since 1954. Before you move on, stop for an espresso at Bar Roma and make sure to order lingua di suocera (‘mother-in-law’s tongue’), Procida’s traditional puff pastry filled with lemon custard. Chiesa di Santa Maria della Pietà , an 18th-century church with an iconic baroque belfry, and the lemon-yellow church of Santa Maria delle Grazie, built in 1679, are also nearby and worth a visit.
From here, it’s a 15-minute walk uphill (then downhill) to Marina Corricella, Procida’s oldest fishing village. Only reachable on foot or by boat, the area is one of the best places to stay for a taste of slow island living, and is full of restaurants—Caracale, La Lampara, Il Pescatore, to name a few—gelato shops like Chiaro di Luna, and bars.
At the opposite end of the island, Marina Chiaiolella is another fishing village with great eateries (try Da Mariano and Lido Vivara), craft boutiques, and old-school bakeries—not to mention access to one of the island’s most popular beaches, spiaggia della Chiaiolella, known for its sunsets.
Terra Murata, the fortified medieval stronghold at the highest and northernmost tip of the island, is another highlight. A tumble of skinny lanes and crumbling houses, this is Procida’s most historical center, home to Abbazia San Michele Arcangelo, which honors Procida’s patron saint, and Palazzo D’Avalos, a 16th-century palace that was the former residence of the island’s governing family. In 1830 the building was converted into a prison that eventually closed in 1988. Two viewpoints here offer the island’s most panoramic vistas: Corricella in all its candy-colored glory to the west; and the Gulf of Naples, with Capri in the distance, to the east.
Village of Corrocella
On the opposite coast from Marina Grande, in the southern part of the island, there here is a place that no guide on “what to see in Procida” will ever forget.
The seaside village of Corricella is simply suggestive and lively at the same time. It is the classic fishermen village animated by bars, restaurants and small craft shops where you can buy the most typical souvenirs, which anyone who comes to Procida cannot avoid to love and photograph.
Here you can stroll among the fishermen’s nets, admiring the very old colourful houses and deeply breathing the sea in the air.
The BEACHES
Among Procida’s most scenic beaches are Pozzo Vecchio, whose black sands were made famous in Il Postino; spiaggia Chiaia, to the east, which overlooks Ischia and features clear, shallow waters and a backdrop of rocky cliffs (plus the excellent seafood restaurant La Conchiglia); and Ciraccio, the longest and most secluded. Further down, the spiaggia della Chiaiolella is another gem, though slightly more frequented, especially in the late afternoon, when its stabilimenti (beach clubs with rows of sunbeds and umbrellas) start rolling out aperitivo.
Chiaiolella Beach
Procida
Procida Lemons
WHAT to EAT
Spaghetti alla Pescatora Povera - Recipe
This “poor” version of seafood spaghetti contains just anchovies, cherry tomatoes, and a dusting of Pecorino Cheese.
Luveri al sale
The waters of Procida abound with Pagello fish, which locals call luvero. The most popular way to cook this sea bream is in a salt crust (al sale) with some herbs.
Coniglio alla Procidana
In addition to the sea, locals have also sourced food from the island’s terroir. Procida, like Ischia, has a signature rabbit dish, usually prepared with cherry tomatoes, garlic, rosemary, olive oil, and white wine.
Calamari Ripieni
Recipes vary, but the Procidani usually slip anchovies into their filling for stuffed squid.
Pizza di Procida
As Procida is just a 40-minute ferry ride from Naples, it should come as no surprise that the island's pizzaioli emulate the wood-fired style of the world's pizza capital.
Tortano con i carciofi
Especially popular around Easter, this savory bread is stuffed with artichokes and, at times, sausage.
Spaghetti ai ricci di mare
Creamy and briny, sea urchin has a particular taste, one that fuses nicely with spaghetti when sautéed with olive oil, garlic, parsley, and a hint of lemon.
Lingue di Procida
Procida is famous for its lemons, which are larger and sweeter than other varieties. The Procidani prepare them in dozens of sweet and savory recipes, and a signature dolce is the Lingue di Procida, or tongues of Procida, lemon-flavored, cream-filled pastries.
L’insalata di limone
Speaking of lemons, the lemon salad with mint, garlic, crushed red chili pepper, garlic and olive oil makes for an airy, refreshing start to any meal.
A Typical Procida Lunch
Fried Anchovies & a Glass of Local Wine
WHERE to STAY
The San Michele in Corricella, has 12 tastefully decorated rooms done in earthy tones and minimalist design. A similar aesthetic is found in its slightly bigger sister property La Suite, a stylish accommodation near Ciraccio that comes with a pool, a garden, and striking views.
In Chiaiolella, the three-star Hotel Ristorante Crescenzo is a popular choice not just for its simple, brightly colored rooms but its pizzeria, one of the most famous in Procida. La Vigna in a beautifully restored farmstead within a vineyard that overlooks the Bay of Naples, delivers charm and tranquility.
CALACAL
PROCIDA
CALACALA FARM EXPERIENCE
FIND a ROOM on PROCIDA
MOVIES SHOT on PROCIDA
IL POSITANO
Starring : Massimo TRoisi
And Maria Grazia Cucinotto
Shot in the Village of Corocella
On The Isle of Procida
Also
The TALENTED Mr. RIPLEY
The Talented Mr. Ripley
Strarring : Matt Damon
Gwyneth Palthrow & Jude Law
MOVIES SHOT on PROCIDA
NAPLES & The AMALFI COAST
POSITANO THE AMALFI COAST
TRAVEL GUIDE / COOKBOOK
SORRENTO CAPRI NAPLES
ISCHIA PROCIDA RAVELLO
Tuesday, May 24, 2022
Stay in a Trullo Alberobello Puglia Trulli
ALBEROBELLO
PUGLIA
Alberobello Gudied Tour
Discover the wonders of the UNESCO World Heritage Listed Alberobello with a local guide. Marvel at the famous Trulli buildings, then stroll the city’s picturesque streets as you visit iconic landmarks and learn about Alberobello’s unique history.
ALBEROBELLO GUIDE TOUR - Highlights
ALBEROBELLO
A WINE BAR in ALBEROBELLO
PUGLIA
POSITANO The AMALFI COAST
TRAVEL GUIDE / COOKBOOK
Best Selling Italian Cookbook Author
Daniel Bellino Zwicke in ALberobello
SPRING 2022
PUGLIA, ITALY
STAY in a TRULLI of YOUR OWN
FIND a ROOM in ALBEROBELLO
Sunday, May 22, 2022
Bar Tiberio Capri HangingOut
Bar Tiberio
Piazza Umberto
CAPRI
Author Daniel Bellino
BAR TIBERIO
CAPRI
I first started going to Bar Tiberio in the Summer of 1986, my second trip to Italy. The year before I went to Europe for the 1st time, visiting : Rome, Florence, San Gigmanano, Barcelon, The Costa Brava, Venice, and Naples, and Positano, but not Capri, which I'd go to the next year, along with Rome and Positano.
So my first trip to Capri. It was quite something. The Summer of 86. I stayed at Villa Tosca, at the time a nice , modest pensione that I found in my Frommer's Guide, Europe on $40 a Day. I took the train from Rome down to Napoli Centrale Train Station. From there I took a bus to the port to catch a ferry to Capri. Back then they had cool old steamer boats that ferried you across to Capri. The boats were slower than the ones now, but better looking than the much faster ugly boats they have these days. The boats make it from Naples to Capri in about 35 minutes, while the old boats took an hour and 15 minutes. That first time, I sat outside on the upper deck of the boat and the ride was absolutely wonderful. I soaked in the Sun, and all that lay before me.
I arrive in Marina Grande Capri a little over an hour after we left the dock in Napoli. Again, it was a most beautiful boat ride. I made my way to a phone and called up Tosca. Yes they had a room. They told me to take the Funicular up to Capritown. When I got off the Funicular I was to walk straight through the Piazza and down to the Quisisana Hotel, where I would straddle the right hand side of the hotel in the alleyway next to it, that led down to the Via Augustus, were I would see a sign going into a pathway that would bring me to Villa Tosca.
Villa Tosca, is still owned by the same family, but the son has turned it from a modest pensione, to a cool little boutique hotel that is now called La Tosca. The vantage point of the hotel is primo, sitting in-between the Carthusian Monastary, The Qusisisana Hotel, and The Piazza Umberto, a 5 minute walk away. Very convenient, and in one of the most beautiful spots in the whole Isle of Capri, with a gorgeous view of The Monastary and The Farglioni Rocks in the near distance, "Absolutely Gorgeous. I made a great find." Back then it cost me $40 a day to stay, which was about double the price of the pensione's I was staying in at the time, in: Rome, but both Venice and Positano were more expensive as well. I was happy. I knew Capri was a bit more expensive than other places, but I was happy. Speaking of expensive, my last to times on this gorgeous island, the place has gotten insanely expensive. More on that later.
That first time, I was mystified at the beauty of the Faraglioni off in the distance. I had a great view from my little private terrazzo. Looking at them, as they sprouted from the sea, they seemed to be beckoning me, and they were. I had to go there. I took a show, put on my shorts and I was on my way. I asked directions, and walked over. I didn't know at the time, but I was walking the length of the Via Tragara, where that pedestrian street ended, and then I would take the pathway down to the Rock, Da Luigi Beach Club, and La Fontelina.
Wow, talk about gorgeous? The views on my way down were spectacular. I let me not forget. There's a cute little old Lemonade Stand there at the end of Via Tragara. I stopped and got my second Lemonade of the day. My 1st being at the piazzetta after I got off the Funicular. Both lemonade (Granita) stands are still there, as well as the one on Via Augustus by La Tosca. Anyway, I walked down, taking pictures along the way. I reached the bottom and walked over to the free beach near by. I did my first swimming on Capri. I would come back and swim around Capri many times. I Love it. I'm not a beach person, but when I go to Capri, and Positano, I do love swimming there.
I couldn't beleive how many people from New York taht I met in Capri on that my first trip. I was swimming at Marina Piccolo and this girl started talking to me, and was excited when I told her I was from New York. She was there with her mother and grandma who lived in Naples. Her mother went to visit her mom, and they'd go to Capri every year. The girl Maria wanted me to meet them. She took me over to them and introduced us. It so happened that her mother and father owned
Benito II Restaurant on Mulberry Street in Little Italy, New York. We became friends and I'd often go down to eat at Benito. I'm glad I went into the Hotel Palma this one night. They have a beautiful garden in front of the hotel, and there are large French Doors at the beautiful lobby hotel. The doors stay open, and I could here live music from the bar inside. I went in. A girl was playing piano and singing lovely music. I sat down at the bar. I got my Negroni, and couldn't believe my eyes when I saw this guy Tony, who owned a little clothing store in New York where I had bought a couple things from him. We were both happy to see each other, we chit chatted and hung out. A girl came up to the bar that Tony knew. Her name was Alessandra, and she had a villa on Capri. She was from Naples origianally but now lived in New York, and she was a customer at the restaurant Caio Bella that I worked at, but I'd never seen her, as I was a cook there, and though I saw some of the customers, I didn't see all of them as I was busy cooking in the kitchen. We became friends, and I hung out with her for the rest of the trip, going to her villa with others later in the night.
It was Alessandra who got me to go to Bar Tiberio the first time. The first two times I went to Capri, I had a routine, wereby I'd go down to the beach somewhere around 10 or 10:30 in the morning. Hand-out, swim, and then around lunch time have lunch at a bar or trattoria down at Marina Piccolo. Go back to the beach, and then around 3;30, hop on a bus by the little chapel that would bring me up to Capritown, just a 200 foot walk to the Piazza where I went with Alessandra and a few others to Bar Tiberio for afternoon cocktails (Aperitivo). I usually had a Campari & Orange Jucie or a Negroni, and the waiter would bring us Potato Chips and Olives to nibble on with are cocktails. I did I love that, hanging out there at the bar in the Piazza, sipping Italian Cocktails, hanging with the beautiful people (as they say, and they were), relaxing, taking it all in, and loving every minute of it. "I felt like a King." And I was.
The Famed FARAGLIONI I Was Talking About
Having an APEROL SPRITZ
BAR TIBERIO
CAPRI
Yes, I do Love the Bar Tiberio. It's a great place to hang and have a good time. You're in Capri, you have to feel good. I must say for those who might be on a limited budget, yes it's not cheap. Not cheap, but well worth a splurge. To some, money is no object, so that don't even think about it. Though I remember the price of my hotel (Tosca was $40 a day), I can't remember the price of the drinks, probably about $4 or $5 for a Negroni or Campari back then. My APerol Spritz in 2022 cost
14 Euros, but it does come with a good amount of snacks which Cosantino my favorite waiter brought me. Cosantino took great care of me, the 6 times I went to Bar Tiberio on this particular trip. I was also drinking glasses of Falanghina (11 Euro), and I met a couple who were staying at the same hotel that I was, we wnt out for dinner at Risitorante Isadoro, then went to Tiberio afterwards and we got a bottle of Falanghina Fenicia that cost $45 a bottle. I had a Lasagan Bolognese (14 E) there one night. It was quite tasty.So, if you're into people watching and hanging out, sitting outside at a wonderful caffe on the beautiful Isle of Capri, Bar Tiberio is the way to go. Normally you go there just for drinks, anytime in the afternoon or evening. You can get breakfast in the morning, a Cappuccino and Italian Pastries if you like, and time of day. You can have Gelato, a Panino (Sandwich) Pizza, or Pasta or whatever you lie, they've got it all, but most of all it's the physicality and ambiance, the cocktails, people watching, and waiters (who take great care of you) who matter the most.
On my last night there in 2022, after I had gone to the bathroom, I saw a guy sitting at a table inside. I wanted to get a picture at the Bar. I asked if he wouldn't mind. He took a great picture of me (above). We were chatting, and I found out that his name was Francesco and his family owned the bar. I told him that I had started going to Bar Tiberio in the Smmmer of 1986, "probably before you were born," I told Francesco. He told be that his parents bought the Bar in 1982, the year Francesco was born. "Oh" I said, "you were 4 years old when I started coming here" Francesco chuckled. We had a nice little chat. It was great meeting and talking with Francesco. I hope to see him again.
Daniel Bellino Zwicke
May 22, 2022
NYC
FIND a ROOM on CAPRI
POSITANO The AMALFI COAST
CAPRI
The SUMMIT of Mt SOLARO
Looking down to The Faraglioni and Sorrento in the Distance
A CAPRI TAXI
MARINA PICCOLO 2022
The ONLY OLD TAXI LEFT
Another Aperol Spritz
BAR TIBERIO
CAPRITOWN
CAPRI, ITALY
PIAZZA UMERTO
CAPRI
VINO & SNACKS
BAR TIBERIO
DELICIOUS in CAPRI
SALUMERIA / GROCERIA
MARINA GRANDE
RAVIOLI CAPRESE
A GLASS of BIANCOLELLA
RISTORANTE ISADORO
Hanging at BAR TIBERIO
CAPRI
2022
ANOTHER APEROL SPRITZ
CHURCH of San MICHELE ARCANGELO
ANACAPRI
CAPRI
At My Hotel
CASA RAIOLO
LOOKING DOWN to MARINA GRANDE
From ANACAPRI
EDUARDO
BARBER at CARTHUSIAN BARBER SHOP
CAPRI
PINO with MY PANINO
DELICIOUS in CAPRI SALUMERIA
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